This is it (Suneel).
Guys I have a surprise for you (me).
I took out the proud Indian flag. Everyone was terribly excited.
We were at the centre point of Hamta Pass (14,300 feet.)
Yayyyyyyyyyyyyy. We were rejoicing over our victory.
We finally did it. Exclaimed Thilak & Ratz. Dhana and Ganga’s
happiness knew no bounds.
So is mine: D.
Back home Thilak created an event in fb and
invited around 14 people. No response from around 4 ppl, 4 ppl couldn’t come. 6
of us myself, Thilak, Gangadharan, Dhana, Arunima and Ratz were ready to scale
the mighty Himalayas. But the event bore the name “Destination Nanda Devi”. I
thought it to be a base camp trek. Nanda Devi is the highest mountain which
lies entirely within the boundaries of India unlike Kanchenjunga which is
shared with Nepal. After so many rounds of phone calls & emails we dropped Nanda
Devi and finally zeroed in on “Kuari Pass and Hamta pass”. Kuari pass lies in Uttarkhand
and Hamta pass in Manali, Himachal Pradesh.
After deciding upon Hamta Pass I
called upon my brother who is an experienced trekker to ask the things to be
carried, not to be carried etc.
Arunima dropped out on the week
before the trek due to some issues in college. My huge back pack was ready and I was eagerly waiting for the day to
arrive.
My best friend Shan came to see me off at the
railway station with the words “Anga poi cheta panna koodathu” :-(
September 7th – Chennai to Delhi – Duronto Express.
The train was scheduled to leave
the landmark railway station “Chennai
Central” (invariably featured in all
Tamil movies when the hero comes to Chennai for a living or to take a revenge
on the villain) at 6:40 am. I was there at the station at 6:25 and soon
Gangadharan, Thilak, Dhana (Thilak’s wife) and Ratz (Bhagirathy) came up.
Followed a round of hugs with Thilak & Ganga. It was 6:40am and the train
quickly pulled out of the station. As usual Ganga’s hilarious dialogues kept us
entertaining until we reached Delhi.
September 8th
– Delhi to Manali
This is the second time I am
setting my foot in New Delhi. Ganga’s and Ratz’s sister Vidhya came to receive
us at the railway station. We had 6 hours of time before we could catch our bus
to Manali. We then drove off to Vidhya’s place for a quick shower. We passed
through Rashtrapathi Bhavan and Parliament (the place where hooliganism
originated). The roads in the parliament’s vicinity were spick and span.
Soon we left for lunch and had good North
Indian food after a tiresome journey. As Delhi is well known for the numerous
tourist spots we decided to go to the Red fort and then to the bus station
directly from red fort. We reached Karol Bagh metro station by rickshaw. Delhi
metro was simply superb. It was designed perfectly by the Famous Engineer Mr.
Sreedhar to cater to Delhi’s exploding population.
We had to catch the bus to Manali
at 5:00pm. It was already 4:20 and we were still in Red fort. We had to wade
through the heavily congested Chandni Chowk to catch our train to reach the bus
stand. The ticketing counter had a serpentine queue but somehow we managed to
get tickets as myself and Thilak stood in 2 separate queues. It was 4:55 and
still we haven’t reached the bus station. I was quite worried but didn’t lose
my cool. We caught an auto and kept on irritating him to drive fast. After so
much of phone calls to the bus operator we managed to reach there on time.
(Whew!!!!!!!).
My uncle used to tell me a lot
about the highways in north as he has travelled the length & breadth of
India. Of course he was absolutely right as there wasn’t even a single jerk in
NH1 before the bus entered the state of Himachal Pradesh. There was a right turn near the
outskirts of Punjab with straight arrow mark boards pointing towards Ludhiana,
Jalandhar, Chandigarh and right arrow mark towards Manali, Shimla.
September 9th – Manali.
Woke up to the sound of whispers from
the adjacent seats. Took a long yawn and had a look at my watch. It was around
5:45 am and the bus had stopped at a Dhaba. I got down
from the bus and saw my mates. I was quite elated and said to Thilak with a hug
“Machi, this is the first time I am visiting Himachal Pradesh”. I understood
why the state was named as Himachal Pradesh. Whichever direction you turn you
get to see the amazing Himalayan Mountains. We had hot tea and took some
pictures of the lower ranges of the Himalayas. Dhana was kind enough to feed a
couple of street dogs with biscuits. The bus took off from the Dhaba at around
6:30. The moment the gas pedal was pressed my eye lids lashed at each other and
I went into a deep sleep again.
Again I woke up to the whispers
of “Wow, amazing, excellent, awesome”. I pulled the curtains and the first
stroke of sun light greeted me directly on my face. I was awestruck on seeing
the beautiful green mountains and a perennial river flowing in between the
mountains. While the bus was nearing Manali I literally jumped in joy in my
seat after seeing snow capped mountains for the first time in my life. Foreigners
sitting behind me were also excited on seeing the beautiful mountains. I held on to my window seat until we reached
Manali. :D.
We reached Manali at around
10:00am. We were greeted by our trek leader Suneel Kumar, a handsome chap in
his late twenties. We were driven to a guest house and were instructed to get
started for the trek soon as it was already late for the day. After reaching
Manali I realized that I lost my brother’s Quecha water proof trekking shoes
somewhere in Delhi. I felt very bad about it and wanted to kick myself for my
carelessness. I realized that I had no other option other than trekking with my
slippers but it was not advisable as we may encounter snowy paths in our trek.
Suneel was quick enough to get me
a pair of shoes but to my dismay the shoes were terribly tight. But I was happy
as I got something for nothing. We were ready with our back packs and a mini
tempo arrived with the common gears for the 5 day trek. We met our cook Rinzing.
A fair man in his early forties whose muscles were ready to tear off from his
tees. He ensured that we would not lose even an inch of fat from our body for
the next 5 days.
The trek started after a half an
hour drive. The ponies were loaded with all the common gears. We were ready to
conquer the Himalayas.
Yahoooooooooooooooooooooooooooooooo: D.
Where the hell did you lose your shoes?!!!!!
I kept asking to myself.
Day 1 September 9 – Manali to Chika
The trek started at around 1:15pm
among the green meadows with Rani river in one side and big rocky hills on the
other. We came across a small circular road which was used by the locals for
carrying supplies to the nearby villages. However steep footsteps made up of
partial mud & stones were built for trekkers to avoid a circumferential
walk on the road. After an hour of steep climbs I got
mild exhaustion.
44 hours of non-stop travel,
irritating steep climbs, the frustration of losing my shoes, mild showers,
thick mud and the tight shoes spoiled my day. I was more frustrated on losing
my shoes than anything else. I couldn’t help myself with the fact that we
barely took rest for an hour before starting the trek.
The shoes were so tight that my right foot’s
thumb nail clotted. Ganga came to my rescue and offered me his shoes as the
shoe which I wore and his were almost of similar size.
I can never forget Ganga’s good gesture. If not for Ganga I would never
have completed the trek successfully.
We stopped at a small house cum
shop for tea break. This gentleman had lot of biscuits, chocolates, wafers;
maggi’s including chappathi and north Indian dishes for travelers. We had hot
maggi and tea. The drizzling too stopped after which I felt much better.
But I was still upset over losing
my shoes. The shopkeeper told us that this was the last place where we would
get mobile phone signal. I finally decided to inform my mom on losing my shoes.
The phone rings
Mom: Where are you?
Me: We are in a village near Manali. This is the last place from where we
will get mobile phone signal.
Me: I want to tell you something.
Mom: What is it?
Me: I lost Anand’s shoes somewhere in Delhi. Don’t know where.
Mom: You could have been a bit careful. You know that Delhi is famous for
theft and robbery.
Me: I know that I should have been careful but but!!!!!!
Mom: Leave it.
Me: Inform Anand
Mom: Ok. Enjoy the trek. Be careful. Bye
Me: Bye
I felt much better after talking
with my mom. I also realized that I came for the trek to enjoy the serenity
& beauty of nature and not to frown upon and snub people. We started after gulping down hot
tea and maggi soup. The frustrating steep climb finally ended. We came across
an apple orchard. The kind owner gave us a handful of apples to us. I haven’t
had such juiciest & tastiest apple anywhere.
We
came across a hydroelectric power project dam which feeds electricity to some
of the northern areas of Himachal Pradesh. Himachal Pradesh is a power surplus
state. If a hilly state like HP which lacks adequate infrastructure and rail
connectivity is a power surplus state then why not Tamilnadu?
It was slowly getting dark and we
haven’t reached our campsite yet. I was worried about trekking in the dusk
as even a simple fall may become too costly since we were far away from
civilization. Suneel gave us enough confidence that we were just few distances
away from the campsite. Thank god it was 7:20pm when we reached the campsite.
The colourful tents and hot tea
was awaiting us. I just had a quick change over and rushed to Rinzing’s tent to
witness what was being cooked for the dinner. Soon everyone came to the tent
and a round of laughable jokes followed before we had yummy dinner and dived
into our sleeping bags.
Day 2 September 10 – Chika to Bhalu-ka-Ghera
A motionless sleep after a gap of
almost 60 hours meant a lot for all of us. We were terribly afresh on the
morning. The campsite looked beautiful on the broad daylight. The sky was
clear. The sun was just up and the beautiful sight of the sun rays settling on
the top of the snow capped mountains was really a treat to watch. My energy
levels were at its peak. We packed off after breakfast and started our trek.
Today we started walking through
boulders and patches of stones amidst the green meadows. It reminded me of the
treks with Chennai Trekking Club. I was really enjoying each & every moment
of the trek as I haven’t witnessed such green meadows. They looked afresh after
being sprinkled by the mild drizzles yesterday. Soon we crossed the river over
a makeshift bridge.
We encountered some moderate
steep ascents and descents. Day 2 was comparatively tougher than day 1.
We started feeling the heat once
again but carried on. Dhana was little tired and walked slowly. I, Suneel and
Ratz were going on the front and Dhana, Thilak and Ganga were coming behind.
It was lunch time. We stopped at grassland
and had packed sandwich, raw potato, banana, chocolates and a mango drink. The
sun was really high at this time and we felt the effect on our head. Dhana was
exhausted and wanted to take rest but Suneel insisted on moving further as the
climate swaps in no time. I notice that Dhana is slow and so is Ratz. Ganga was
slow but steady. Dhana stops now and then taking off her back pack. Thilak
helps her by carrying her back pack.
Man this guy is very strong. He
single handedly carried her back pack for a long time before loading them in
the pony.It was 4:30 pm and we were far
away from the camp site. The lights were slowly fading. Dhana was completely
exhausted. The symptoms of mountain sickness were there and she was little
dehydrated. We gave her electrolyte water. She couldn’t drink more than 3 sips.
I had a quiet word with Thilak
and thought of evacuation. The prospect of evacuation was daunting as the
ponies were far away from us. Thank god my worst fears went
down the drain as Dhana was only exhausted and not hit by mountain sickness.
Quickly I and Suneel decide to go to the campsite and get her something hot to
drink.
We were walking quietly until we came across a
huge boulder. After crossing the boulder a huge snow capped mountain unearthed
before me.
Oh my Godddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddddd!!!!!!!!!.....
That’s how I felt on seeing them.
This mountain made my day. I terribly felt the absence of my mates as they
couldn’t see one of the best snow capped mountain.
I called Suneel and told him “Bhaiya this
mountain looks stunning”.
He said “That’s alright, you come
fast. They are waiting for us”.
Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
We reached the campsite. Suneel
quickly told Renzing to prepare hot soup and tea. He also advised me to stay
back and help Renzing while Suneel and Munish (the pony caretaker) would carry
tea and soup for my mates. I quickly arranged the tents with the help of Munish
and laid out the sleeping mats and bag before the rest of them arrive. I
finished off the work in half an hour and went to Rinzing’s tent as usual to
see what was being cooked for the dinner.
Hot pakora’s were being fried for
the dinner and I grabbed a few pieces before Renzing fried them.
It
was 6:50pm and I was little worried as my mates weren’t back. To my surprise
they reached more quickly than I thought. Dhana was feeling little better after
she was administered with a Diamox pill. The weather outside dipped after dusk
and we felt the effect in our spine.
Day 3 September 11 – Bhalu-ka-Ghera to Siagoru
The D-day has finally arrived.
Suneel warned us to walk slowly as we will be gaining high altitude coupled
with very high steep climbs. The trek started with narrow paths and easy ascent
at first. The hills looked fresh and we were walking slowly so as to get
acclimatized to the thin air.
“We have to cross 4 narrow ridges between 6
mountains before we reach the centre point of Hamta pass. This will take
atleast 5 hours”. Exclaimed Suneel.
We came across a sandy lake and
couldn’t resist snapping a group shot before walking further. We saw lot of
foreigners on our way and I was awestruck when an Italian told me that he has
trekked to Hamta pass all the way from Ladakh.
Italians are well known for their
climbing abilities. Reinhold Messner was the first Italian and in the world to
summit all the fourteen eight-thousanders (mountains above 8000 metres) without
supplemental oxygen.
We were climbing amidst loose
rocks and were directly exposed to landslide at any time. My worst fears were
confirmed when we heard rocks rolling down the neighbouring mountains. I was
chanting prayers within myself to reach the campsite safely.
I felt the altitude gain and
turned around to see how much altitude we have gained. Indeed we gained by more
than 2000 feet and I was astonished to see the back-drop of the mighty
Himalayas. For a second my breath was
arrested and I felt the altitude gain. Took a deep breath and I was alright. We
came across a huge ice patch. The rani river drains mysteriously at this place.
We were elated on seeing ice.
I asked Suneel in Tamil “ Yow Eppo
ya hamta pass varum” and he was confused :P.
This is it (Suneel).
Guys I have a surprise for you (me).
I took out the proud Indian flag. Everyone was terribly excited.
We were at the centre point of Hamta Pass (14,500 feet.)
Yayyyyyyyyyyyyy. We were rejoicing over our victory.
We finally did it. Exclaimed Thilak & Ratz. Dhana and Ganga’s
happiness knew no bounds.
So is mine: D.
After a few minutes of
celebrations the clouds were fast approaching. Suneel warned that we descent
quickly so as to avoid altitude sickness. The descent was extremely steep and it
was not what I expected. It was almost a descent of 90 vertical degrees and the
most steepest I have ever encountered in my trekking experiences. Ganga &
Ratz joined Suneel while Thilak & I swept the team while Dhana was
descending in between. The campsite was visible from 13,000 feet. Ganga &
Ratz marched towards the campsite while Suneel was waiting patiently for we
three to descend. I was the last to reach the campsite as it took me hours
together to descend the steep trail. Hot tea welcomed us at the campsite.
Day 4 – Siagoru to Chatru
Siagoru was the coldest part of
our trek. I woke up half past midnight to check the time. The weather temp
recorded in my mobile was
2°C. I was bit
uncomfortable as I am not a big fan of cold weather. I woke up with a itching
pain on my right foot. My right foot’s thumb nail completely clotted and I
could in no way wear the shoes. Slowly I limped out of the tent and I was
completely surrounded by snow capped mountains. My happiness knew no bounds.
Completely forgot all the pain and started shooting as many pictures as
possible. We could see many colourful tents which resembled a battle field. Some
trekking groups reached the campsite after us. After breakfast Suneel gave a
small briefing. I was elated on knowing that I can avoid wearing the shoes
today and switch on to my slippers.
The trek started with a long walk first. Suneel, ratz, ganga & Dhana
lead the team while me & Thilak were sweeping the trail. We were so busy in
shooting pictures all the way that we were far behind from our team. I couldn’t
even think of leaving siagoru as the mighty mountains were displaying enough
courage to protect us from snowfalls. We walked fast to get in touch with our
mates.
On the way I met my German Friend “Martin” whom I met daily in our
trail. I was completely happy and I felt the pride when he told me “Your
country’s Geography is awesome dude. This place looks more beautiful than the Alps”.
Martin came on a long holiday to India
with his wife. He travelled to Varanasi, Jaipur, Delhi, Chandigarh and Amritsar
before coming to Manali for the trek. Took a snap with him before waving him
goodbye.
We were slowly descending down the hills. After crossing through narrow
ridges we could spot chatru from a distance. The roads far down below resembled
the shape of a serpent. I was quite relieved to see human habitation after a
gap of almost 4 days. We descended, descended, descended and finally reached
chatru after a long walk of almost 3.5 hours. Ganga puked in-between due to
lack of sleep in the previous night’s cold temperature.
We reached chatru by lunch. Two small eateries were and a resting place
for travelers welcomed us. It was time for munish (the pony care-taker) to
leave for his village along with his ponies. We took a snap with him and bid
him adieu.
While bidding him adieu my mind was flashing with the rat race which we
encounter in our daily lives. We slog for hours together daily in our
workplaces but still we are not satisfied with the fat pay cheques while people
at the other end of the country depend on trekkers for their
livelihood.
“Guys this is Sanjay” who was introduced to us
by Suneel. His vehicle was ready to drive us to Chandratal. After 4 hours of an
awesome drive through the Lahaul & Spiti valley we reached the campsite of
Chandratal.
The campsite was one of the most beautiful places
I have ever seen. We put up our tents amidst the lush green meadows. Mount CB13
was clearly visible from our campsite. While the others were busy in erecting
the tents I & ratz went for a small acclimatization walk.
Day 5 – Chandratal (Heaven in earth)
After a quick round of hot tea we
were ready to drive to Chandratal which was around half an hour drive from our
camp site. Sanjay parked the car near the foot of the hill.
After a walk of
around 15 minutes the beautiful Chandratal Lake emerged before us.
My God!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
That’s how we felt on seeing the
lake.
A crystal clear lake at an
altitude of 14,500 feet ? I just couldn’t believe myself.
The entire area was plagued by
dead silence. I started getting mild headache due to its serenity. Unable to
bear the pin drop silence years of hustle bustle life in the cities I quickly
broke the silence by having a quiet word with Suneel without disturbing the others. I touched the waters with an apprehension that it could be freezing
cold but to my pleasant surprise the lake was warm. We stayed there for around
half an hour.
I & Thilak were terribly
happy as the entire agenda went off very well. We trekked through the finest of
the fine weather. We went through many blogs on this (Hamta pass) route and there
were lot of people who recounted that hamta pass is well known for its heavy
snow but the weather gods were kind to us to ensure that we don’t fight the
heavy rains & snows. Our happiness knew no bounds. We drove back to
campsite and winded up the tents to leave Manali.
The drive to Manali (around 92kms
from Chandratal) was breathtaking and mindblowing. Literally there were no roads and we
had to drive through a single lane jeep trail. Any vehicle coming in the
opposite direction has to leave way for the other in such a way that neither of
them avoids skating down the hill with their vehicles. :P
I sat in the front seat and was
thoroughly enjoying the drive along the Lahaul & Spiti Valley. I cursed at
myself for not getting my car’s audio cd. The backdrop perfectly resembled the
landscape that appears in Aradhana’s “Mere Sapno Ki Rani Kab Aayegi Tu” Song J.
After 3 hours of grueling off
road drive and much to our relief we started on the road drive. We soon reached
Rohtang Pass and the climate was so damn pleasant. Much of my friends told me
that the climate at Rohtang Pass is always near 0 degree but to my surprise the
climate was so good. The temperature in my mobile showed it at 14. We visited a
small temple at Rohtang Pass and then hopped on in the car to reach the final
destination.
The roads were well maintained by
the Border Roads Organization. The signboards such as “After Whisky driving
risky, Be gentle on my curves, In fact we don’t own the roads” kept us
entertaining until we reached Manali.
Day 6 (Back to Manali):
After a thorough undisturbed
sleep for almost 12 hours we shopped for hours together in the main market, ate
momo’s to our hearts content and bought small gifts to our families and to our
trek leader Suneel who guided us safely back to Manali.
As the bus was riding down
the hill station I slowly waved goodbye at the snow capped mountains and
promised her that I will be back in 2014 to meet her at Stok Kangri before
pulling down the window seat curtain.